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BIODRY BIODIESEL STRUCTURAL DRYING SYSTEM

A Dry Building Is A Happy Building

How to Dry a Structure...

When it comes to drying out a structure, several methods are commonly used. Most are either incorrect or overly expensive. We've seen the aftermath of wet structures. The anguish of homeowners having to tear apart a brand new house and the extreme expenses the builders had to absorb. Here are the ways it is traditionally done...what is right and what is wrong.

  1. Let it air dry naturally. This works well if you do it during the summer, there wasn't much water in the structure and you have long stretches of nice hot dry weather, preferably breezy. The drawbacks are two...first chance are your materials were wet when they were delivered in the spring (it rains then) and those materials may not dry in closed areas such as crawlspaces without airflow help (see the rental department for help in that area!). It is also very time consuming. The good part is, it is cheap if you have the time. Doing this during the cold or rainy season? Might as well go to Vegas because you live to gamble. The evaporation potential is too low and you'll leave moisture inside the materials which should be driven out.

  2. Close it up and turn on the furnace. This method is a big source of business for us and we want to thank the builders who use it, it has paid many a mortgage payment. Think about it...a furnace is designed to circulate the air within a house. If you heat the structure up and vaporize all the moisture...where does it go? In addition, this does nothing for the wet zones like attics and crawlspaces but provide some additional growth heat. Also, a weekend or even a week isn't enough time to get the heat thru the un-insulated structure...and you DO dry out before you insulate and close up the walls don't you? A house furnace simply doesn't have the BTU or airflow capability to heat and dry an uninsulated structure and you must dry the structure BEFORE insulating and drywalling or you'll trap all the moisture in the walls and give us a nice large contract in a few months.

  3. Use Portable tube heaters. Also known as direct fired heaters. THIS IS DANGEROUS! Not only is it incredibly inefficient because for every gallon of fuel a direct fired heater burns, you put a gallon of moisture into the air...defeating the purpose, but these heaters emit high levels of toxic carbon monoxide gas. Heating an entire structure with one of these is akin to closing the garage door and starting your car for a long time. There are serious liability issues involved (what...as a kid you NEVER went into a new house when it was being built to play?). Using this type of heater is a BAD idea! Also, they tend to burn structures down which is none too good for your insurance rates. 

  4. Run Electric Heaters. Good clean source of heat...but there are several problems here again. What happens to the moisture? It circulates in the structure. Most do not have much in the way of airflow. They are insanely inefficient and need absolutely hellacious amounts of power to run them, they are not good for attics and crawlspaces because they can't be ducted. And they are a fire hazard if not properly placed. 

  5. Use indirect fired rental diesel heaters. Now we are getting someplace. An indirect fired heater puts a of clean heat into the structure and it gives you a flow of air thru to help remove the moisture driven out. The problems are several. First, diesel is toxic. Spill it on the site and you have a toxic spill liability. Second, it stinks and spews tons of pollution into the air. Third, most of the rental units have modest CFM airflows. Also, your typical rental indirect fired heater runs about 10 hours before needing to be refueled. You must keep a continuous flow of heat into the structure or it won't dry properly...so you may be looking at refueling them 3 times per day and that means getting out there in the middle of the night and early in the morning to put diesel or kerosene into a heater. Oh...and they are big and heavy so you'll more than likely be paying delivery fees. To get the same drying effect as our Bio-Dry trailer, figure on renting three to five rental units.

  6. Use a large desiccant structural drying unit. These work great! But...they are either propane or NG which must be available onside...or they are electric and require so much power you have to have a huge generator onboard which makes an insane amount of noise. Also, they cost a bloody fortune to rent (think $1500+ per DAY or more). They DO work though!

 

 

What Works BEST?

The best system would give you the following attributes:

Bio-Dry is the Solution!

A Note on BioDiesel Costs

Is Biodiesel more expensive than regular diesel? Yes, it is. Biodiesel runs about 70% more than standard B2 petrodiesel. However, for the non toxicity, the zero fume levels, the fact the money goes to US farmers and not offshore, and the fact it is environmentally sound...several years of experience has taught us that it is SOOOO worth it. Only one person has declined it in several years of operation and everybody else has been thrilled with the results. We have many many many successful drying stories!

Fantastic for Portable Heat and Ventilation!

Have a large area to heat? Have to dry out a large concrete pour job? Big Party tent to heat? Big Water damage problem? Bio-Dry is ideal for these applications. Digital Thermostat allows you to control the temperature to a comfortable or constant level. Zero odor, low noise levels and self contained secure trailer prevent tampering. Long run times mean less refueling worries.

BioDry also has  5000 CFM of air Movement making it ideal as a large confined space ventilation system with high pressure capability making it ideal for use when you have a large space to ventilate with limited exhaust (a regular fan will not supply enough air). Because there are no fuel or drying equipment rental needed, the air only air rates are FAR lower per day.